First, address the problem promptly. The longer the behavior
persists, the more likely it is to become habit. If you have more than one cat,
you may need to separate them until you can identify the responsible party.
Alternatively, your veterinarian can provide you with a special non-toxic stain
given by mouth that will show up in the urine. In cases of defecation outside
the box, you can feed one cat small pieces (about twice the size of a sesame
seed) of a brightly colored non-toxic child's crayon that will show up in the
feces. If you find urine puddles in the house, it is important to distinguish
between spraying and other forms of house soiling. Watch your cat for signs of
spraying—or set up a video camera when you're not around.
Once you have identified the house-soiling cat, it is wise
to take him to your veterinarian for a thorough physical examination and
appropriate diagnostic tests to see if there are underlying medical problems.
Cats with medical conditions may not always act sick. Once medical causes have
been ruled out, your detective work begins. Here are some patterns that may
point to a cause:
Is there one type of surface upon which your cat eliminates?
If so, she may have a preference for certain surfaces, and you can modify your
litter to match it. If she likes soft surfaces like carpeting, buy a softer,
finer litter, and put a carpet remnant in her box. If she has a penchant for
smooth, shiny surfaces, consider putting tiles in her box, covered with only a
small amount of litter. Over time more litter can be added.
Is there a certain location she prefers? She may have
developed a preference for a new area because something bothered her about the
old area. Try placing a litter box in her "preferred" location. Once
she reliably uses it, gradually move the box just a few inches a day back to
the desired location. Stop moving the box if she stops using it; instead simply
move it back to the spot where she last reliably used it, then gradually begin
moving it again.
Is yours a multi-pet household where another animal terrorizes
your cat while she's in the litter box or as she exits? If so, the cat may be
afraid to use the box. If you currently use a covered box, replace it with one
that gives her a 360-degree view. This will give her more confidence while
she's in the box and make her less prone to ambush. Also, position the box so
that she has more than one way out (i.e. don't have the box surrounded on three
sides). Finally, place multiple boxes in multiple locations to give your cat
more options.
When your cat uses the box, does he cry, refuse to bury his
waste, perch on the edge of the box without touching the litter, or eliminate
right near the box?
If so, first be sure the box is clean. Some cats refuse to
use a box containing any urine or feces whatsoever; meticulous litter box
cleanliness is necessary for these individuals. (See "Keeping the Litter
Box Clean.")
Your cat may dislike the litter you use, especially if
you've recently and suddenly changed brands. If you must switch brands, do so
gradually, adding more of the new litter to the old with each cleaning. Most
cats prefer their litter unscented, and an inch or two deep.
The box itself may be the offender. Larger cats need bigger
boxes, and kittens and elderly cats need boxes with low sides. Although humans
like covered boxes for reducing odor and stray litter, from your cat's point of
view, covers hold odors in, and restrict his view of the area. You may need to
purchase several types of boxes and several types of litter to determine which
combination your cat likes best. Finally, provide as many boxes as there are
cats in the house—plus one. For example, if you have two cats, there should be
three litter boxes. This decreases competition and gives each cat a box of his
or her own.
